4 Blunt

American Costume. 1915 1970

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American Costume 1915-1970: A Source Book for the Stage Costumer (Midland Book, Mb 543) $29.95 Shirley Miles O’Donnol provides both illustrations and written descriptions of styles worn in everyday life and suggests ways of adapting them to stage use. Her animated and informative text gives an overview of social trends as well as insight into the fashions themselves. Since women’s fashions change more frequently and more radically than men’s, the chapters follow the eras in women’s apparel:…

American Costume, 1915-1970 …

Tasty Delight: The American Museum Of Natural History's 'Chocolate' Show Is Full Of Empty Calories.

The "chocolate" exhibition at the North American Museum of Natural History (on view until Sept. Four) is no surprise, a trifle. It softens in your mouth, not in your grey matter. Charmingly undemanding (if costly at $17 a pop), it's the dispensable summer blockbuster of museum exhibits, a fixed moneymaker aimed at the sweet-toothed baby in us all.

I have got to admit that I become that toddler when it comes to dark chocolate. After following the floor stickers ("This way to Chocolate!") to a Wonka-esque gold-scripted arch, I found myself winding thru a maze of basic history. I made my way thru the exhibit dutifully taking notes, but one thought beat within my one track mind : At the end of this exhibit, there is a chocolate cafe. A chocolate cafe. A chocolate cafe. Round the time Spain was spreading the sweet stuff from the Mayans to Europe, I gave in and cheated.

I scuttled thru the exhibit, past the antique candy wrappers, and bought a big bar of organic dark chocolate. Then I snuck back to the beginning. I was careful to cover the candy bar in my coat as I past the curators since this was completely against the guidelines. Nobody wants tourists smearing Mars bars on the museum's spotless glass cases. But as a critic, I thought that it was important that I'm employed with all my senses.

Loaded up on the sweet stuff, I discovered that the exhibit does indeed cover the fundamentals of chocolate history. You've got your wrinkly cocoa pods, your Mayan pottery, your industrial history of the cocoa trade. You've got your antique pellet of 1,500-year-old chocolate. Better you've got your photo of a gigantic Easter bunny, circa 1890. Five feet tall, the rabbit has the chalky grace of an Egyptian sarcophagus, and it stands, god-like, beside it is its creator, Robert L. Strohecker. The label reveals that Strohecker is "the pop of the chocolate Easter bunny"pretty much the best epithet one could hope for in this life.

Some of the exhibit's historical sections were a little on the obscure side. "Nearly a hundred years passed before other European countries caught the chocolate craze," read one display's label. "Were the Spanish making an attempt to keep chocolate to themselves? And how did stories of chocolate spread? We are not sure." But there's just enough background to keep an intellectual candy-lover occupied. Among stuff I learned without targeting too intently : The traditional Mayans offered the god Quetzalcoatl ritual chocolate that was "a deep blood-red color." By 1930, there were 40,000 different types of chocolate bars. Chocolate contains the love-chemical phenylethylamine. (Though the poster rather primly contended that there's "no decisive proof it stimulates the libido.") And don't feed your dog chocolate, it can be lethal, and it is a waste of good chocolate.

At one or two junctures, the facts-to-dramatics proportion dipped too low for even phenylethylamine-addled me. In one alcove, visitors find a movie screen displaying the swirly legend "Chocolate meets sugar in Spain." This silent-movie caption is instantly followed by a video illustration : an enormous brown tongue of liquified chocolate pours down from the pinnacle of the screen, followed by a spinning drift of sugar. Then the solemn words appear again : "Chocolate meets sugar in Spain." That is the maximum extent of the display.

More successful is the panoply of defunct candy wrappers, each beaming guarantees of delight. "Keep the party perkin '! Woman, take a bow! Serve 'em nuggets, serve 'em chips! Glorious and wow!" reads one. Taken together, the wrappers form a record of cultural trends, from Brach's Swingtime (named after the dance craze) to the Mr. Big Shaq Snaq (named after the rings player). There's also a telephone-shaped chocolate mould, a hand-carved coffin in the form of a cocoa pod, and a dispensing machine that once dispensed Hershey bars for a penny each. There's not that much sociological depth hereI found myself considering oddball subjects the curators could have covered, like the way chocolate images has been used to refer to black skin or the whole Cathy cartoon concept that women have some special biological need for chocolate, but a few of these tchotchkes are fun to have a look at.

American Costume, 1915-1970 $31.61 Shirley Miles O''Donnol provides both illustrations and writtendescriptions of styles worn in everyday life and suggests ways of adapting them tostage use. Her animated and informative text gives an overview of social trends aswell as insight into the fashions themselves. Since women''s fashions change morefrequently and more radically than men''s, the chapters follow the eras in women''sapparel: The First World War, The Flaming Twenties, The Depressed Thirties, The Second World War, The Postwar Era and the ''New Look, '' The Late Fifties: Dawn of the Space Age, and The Sixties: Unisex andMiniskirts. Lavishly illustrated with original drawings by theauthor, photographs of costumes now in museum collections, and drawings andphotographs taken from fashion magazines spanning more than fifty years, AmericanCostume, 1915-1970 is a practical -- and entertaining -- handbook for the stagecostumer.

American Costume, 1915-1970 $29.95 Shirley Miles O'Donnol, Shirley Miles O'Donnel, Foreword by Lucy Barton,Paperback - 1ST MIDLAN, Edition: 1, English-language edition,Pub by Indiana University Press